Leaving Constitución, train tracks cut through a bit of an excavated area before leveling out, then are elevated on approaching the Riachuelo. An small bridge (Ituzaingó, 1200 block) imported from the Liverpool firm Francis Morton & Co., Ltd. is unique & gives great views of passing trains:

Just before leaving Buenos Aires, the train stops at Estación Hipólito Yrigoyen (Juan Darquier, 900 block)… an unexpected bit of Art Nouveau with wide open surroundings often used in film productions:

Barracas is home to several substations formerly belong to the Compañía Italo-Argentino de Electricidad. Regular readers already know of my particular fascination with these Italianate brick structures. For exact locations, consult my Google Map archive. Some examples are below:

Everyone seems to love a Masonic lodge, & the local “Hijos del Trabajo” (San Antonio 814) has been standing since 1884. Recently renovated, tours are occasionally given but I’ve yet to make it inside:

With lots of Masonic symbolism but fulfilling a different purpose was the Casa del Pueblo, former branch office for the Partido Socialista (Alvarado 1963). When I walked by in 2008, the building had been acquired by a community-run day care center. The woman I talked to said they planned to maintain the original façade. That’s a relief. But I don’t think any maintenance has been done to the exterior since these photos were taken (apologies about the quality… was a crappy day to take pics):

Probably the most remarkable find during my entire exploration of Barracas was a billboard from Perón’s second term (opposite Guanahani 120). Uncovered by decades of erosion, large letters urge readers: Apoye el 2º Plan Quinquenal… Support the 2nd Five-Year Plan. When anti-Peronistas went to such great lengths to erase all traces of Perón, it’s amazing that this could resurface in the 21st century:

Unfortunately, the billboard has since been painted over… ironically by Kirchner supporters, no doubt celebrating a new wave of Peronism. But the lesson I learned from covering the entire barrio is that Barracas is full of surprises. Go see for yourself & discover a very different Buenos Aires.

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Barracas series: Divisions • Industrial • Residential • Services • Odds & Ends

Large tracts of land not occupied by factories gave the city space to establish hospitals. Most were built in the neighboring barrio of Parque Patricios, but a few crept into Barracas. This was back when hospitals were built as a series of pavilions to allow light & air to reach patients, & all these compounds still exist today… some with lush gardens unexpected in this part of town. And exactly why Macri wanted to move the city government offices there. That plan seems to have been put on hold.

The Hospital Rawson, originally created to care for returning soldiers from the War of the Triple Alliance & home to the pioneering Finochietto brothers, is in sad shape these days. Part of the complex is now a senior citizens’ home. In about the same condition is the adjacent psychiatric hospital. There are two actually, separating men & women. The hospital with the best reputation in the neighborhood is the Hospital Británico:

With so many hospitals, there must be a pharmacy or two. The most luxurious is the 1897 Farmacia Iriarte (Avenida Iriarte 2200) preserving its original wood interior & lots of old glassware:

To complete public health offerings, the Instituto Nacional de Microbiología (Avenida Vélez Sarfield 564) boasts a number of pavilions & water towers:

Religious services are provided by a number of churches & synagogues. The gigantic Basílica del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús (Avenida Vélez Sarfield 1351) is best appreciated from Parque Leonardo Pereyra across the street, while the Templo de Santa Lucía (Avenida Montes de Oca 850) is dwarfed by surrounding buildings. The interior is luxurious & surprisingly patriotic. The Iglesia de Santa Felicitas (Plaza Colombia) has a sad love story behind its construction… much to the chagrin of its priests. Don’t miss the gorgeous Neo-Moorish Sinagoga Or Torah (Brandsen 1444) & sneak a photo when the guard isn’t looking. Back in 2007 I stumbled upon a synagogue for sale (Rocha 1467), but I haven’t been back to see what became of it:

A branch of the Salvation Army has been painted to fit in with nearby Pasaje Lanín:

Many schools are scattered through Barracas. A particular favorite is the Escuela Superior de Comercio de la Nación, Sección Sud (Avenida Martín García 874) for its French-inspired architecture:

Sports facilities offered by the Club Atlético Barracas Central are a bit hidden, tucked in behind the Estación Buenos Aires & next to Villa 21-24:

Surely there are more services than I’ve posted here, but hopefully this series of posts inspires more people to revalue this fantastic part of Buenos Aires!

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Barracas series: Divisions • Industrial • Residential • Services • Odds & Ends

Admiral Guillermo Brown‘s palatial residence did not survive, but an abused granite monument marks the spot (Avenida Martín García 584):

Sculptor Julio Vergottini lived in a mini-castle on the banks of the Riachuelo. Hardly an enviable spot, it’s still a private residence (Viejo Puente Pueyrredón & Lavadero):

The Díaz Vélez mansion, adorned with lions, has been under restoration for many years (Avenida Montes de Oca 110):

The one touristy thing everyone knows in Barracas is Pasaje Lanín, a series of houses painted in wild patterns under the direction of Marino Santa María:

At the very limit of Barracas along Avenida Caseros (basically from Parque Lezama to Plaza Constitución), a concentration of nicely preserved units surprises most people. Two of my favorites are what I call the “bee building” (Caseros 954) & the railroad management units (Caseros, 400 block):

Another fave is the 1923 Barrio Monseñor Espinosa which was part of a public housing program. More about this beautiful spot at my other blog, Housing for the Masses:

Many houses have fallen into disrepair, but finding a gem is like getting lucky in a scavenger hunt. There’s really no other facet of Barracas that shows off its once elegant past:

Modern development has managed to creep into Barracas, usually under the guise of refurbishing warehouses into overpriced lofts. But a few highrises can be found as well. The Solares de Montes de Oca (at 587) are surprisingly out of place. Neighborhood watch groups like Proteger Barracas do a wonderful job of monitoring for any of these “space invaders” & help limit their construction.

Of course, the other end of the spectrum is also present in Barracas. The banks of the Riachuelo are home to some of the largest villas (shantytowns) in Buenos Aires. I made it to the entrance of Villa 21 & even though it didn’t appear all that dangerous, I wasn’t about to press my luck:

And although it may seem like part of a villa, the complex on Calle Australia dates from 1889. Housing for workers on the Ferrocarril del Sur (workshops used to be in Barracas before moving to Remedios de Escalada), the site is in rather poor condition. But it has become a neighborhood icon & drawn by every architecture student. Fascinating that it’s still standing… barely:

The residential character of Barracas surprised me most when I was covering every block on foot. There’s a mix of everything from the glamourous past to the destitute future & is every flâneur’s dream come true.

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Barracas series: Divisions • Industrial • Residential • Services • Odds & Ends

Don’t be jealous… although you should be.

The Kavanagh is a Holy Grail to architecture buffs worldwide, & I scored a visit inside today. The building administration was adamant about not taking photos in public areas. Did I listen? We were chastised several times, & I wouldn’t want the person who granted us access to get into trouble. She lives there after all. But how could I resist?

My regular readers know I’m moving to Sydney soon–too soon it seems–and by an odd coincidence the father of my best friend’s partner just spent a week in Buenos Aires. He’s a big-time architect, so he toured lots of secret places in Buenos Aires including the restoration works in the Teatro Colón. We were scheduled to get together today, & he fortunately included me on a visit to the Kavanagh.

If you think it’s amazing from the outside, it’s just as spectacular inside. Imagine having your chauffeur drop you off at the revolving doors as you make a grand entrance:

Walking past a portrait of Corina Kavanagh, inset light fixtures lead you toward the lobby:

A rather dark space with original poofy, curved chairs & inset desks, the walls are covered with squares of thin leather. No kidding. Light enters both sides through fanfolds… one side is clear glass & the other is a mirror. The combined effect brings lots of light into an otherwise dark space:

The drive-thru entrance mentioned above is actually closed these days, probably to keep the interested public out. Everyday entrances are along the sides with light fixtures that resemble stretched slices of the building. How sexy is this:

The hallway which leads down the Plaza San Martín side of the building is covered in original wood with lots of mirrors, more beautiful glass light fixtures, & an etched glass mural. Not sure why they chose a northern Argentina desert scene, but it’s beautiful nonetheless:

At the end of the hallway is a decorative bust set into a niche—one of several on the ground floor level. And tucked away into a dead-end corner is a sculpted model of the entire building. It just makes you appreciate it even more:

From there, you’d take the appropriate Otis elevator to your apartment. Each apartment has its own private entrance via a separate elevator. What’s cool is that the grill doors close automatically… quite an innovation for 1936:

Stepping out of the elevator is a small square space with display board & etched glass to let you know what floor you’re on:

The apartments are actually rather plain & simple, but the floor plan makes up for it. The apartment we visited was at the tip of a “V” with rooms on both sides, so the views were amazing… except for the smog. The mail slot had been painted over since, but it’s an interesting addition.

I also had a lingering question finally answered. The building was one of the first of its kind with central air-conditioning (hence the low ceiling in the second foto below), but these days A/C units cover the exterior. I always wondered why. Turns out the Carrier unit was too complicated to repair when it stopped working a few decades ago:

Moreso than the river views or treetops of Plaza San Martín, it was the roof of the Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento that blew me away. I had never seen the detailing on the top before… with the Edificio Alas in the background to boot:

The entire April 1936 edition of the trade digest Nuestra Arquitectura was dedicated to the Kavanagh, & the apartment owner had a copy. It’s full of floor plans & reasons to move into this most modern of buildings. The CIAE provided electricity at a discounted rate for tenants. That’s reason enough for me to buy an apartment there… & quite a coincidence since former Econ Minister Martínez de Hoz directed the CIAE, sold it for an exorbitant price & currently lives in the building:

Dictatorship stories aside, this was another great experience thanks to the generosity of people here. Thanks for the invite!

Think about Spain for a moment… go ahead, I’ll wait.

Most of the images that come immediately to mind are in fact typical of the south & Sevilla, in particular. Sevilla’s spirit–partially through clever marketing–has captured everyone’s imagination. But the city truly lives up to its reputation. An ambiance exists in Sevilla, even when overly crowded with tourists, that is difficult to put into words. I imagine every visitor goes there to feel a bit of the city’s special vibe for themselves.

Thinking ahead to next year & some of the places in Spain & Portugal I’d like to cover with Endless Mile, top on the list is the cathedral in Sevilla. How many times have I been inside? Too many to count. How many times would I return? As many as I possibly can.

Like Sevilla itself, the cathedral contains a special something which is very easy to perceive.

During my guiding days, I laughed along with tour members about how many cathedrals we visited in Spain. Sure, there were lots of other monuments along the way but cathedrals seemed to stand out. They speak volumes about Spain’s devout past. Being such a central part of everyone’s lives for centuries, cathedrals functioned as early museums & as an expression of a people’s soul. Considering Spain was one of the most powerful countries in the world, their message can be almost overwhelming today.

But deconstructing a cathedral & examining it in sections helps understand such a large & complex structure. In fact, Spanish cathedrals are great for that… the main altar & choir are usually smack dab in the center & walled off. They get in the way of expansive views & Sevilla’s cathedral is no exception. Focusing on details first is really the only way to make sense of it all:

And there are plenty of details: glorious ceilings, tons of wealth on display & of course the tomb of Christopher Columbus… well, maybe he’s there, maybe not.

Crowning this treasure is the Giralda, the original tower of the mosque. Named for its spinning weathervane, the Giralda has great views of the Patio de los Naranjos & the city itself.

I’m anxious to return & start investigating a little deeper into the cathedral’s history… especially with all the great material that’s online these days. I just discovered ultra-detailed architectural plans made in 2007 & an original 1888 photograph of the damage caused by a collapsed, central column. Something I’d heard about but had never seen. Can’t wait to find more goodies like this & share them with everyone:

What follows is basically a photo essay of what I found on a 40 block walk of southern Tucumán… there’s a bit of everything here:

Buenos Aires has its share of iconic buildings & ranking near the top of the list would be the Casa de Gobierno, more popularly known as the Casa Rosada. Let’s just say it: either you like pink or you don’t… not much room for middle ground. In a previous incarnation of this blog, I chronicled the restoration of the building & will have to repost that info later. For now, suffice it to say that the Casa Rosada got a new coat of paint & a lot interior work during Kirchner’s term. For a fascinating & detailed look at the architectural history of the building, Pablo Juan Chiesa has done an amazing amount of research (in Spanish).

When I first moved to Buenos Aires, tours of the Casa Rosada were few & far between. I always seemed to miss the weekends it was open to the public. But after restoration was complete, the building was open every weekend. My first visit was in March 2009 & I returned this past weekend with Darío. Crowds are a bit of a madhouse now & the tour has changed from two years ago but definitely for the better.

We had to wait 30 minutes for our particular tour to begin, but most of the ground floor was available for wandering. Nicely designed handouts are available in English for non-Spanish speakers, the only language for the tour. First stop, the Salón Azul downstairs to view the Impressionist art collection:

Modern art is present in the Casa Rosada as well, like these panels representing the gaucho tradition:

Often used for press conferences, the Salón Mujeres Argentinas is decorated with important female figures in national history. Besides the Madres de Plaza de Mayo & Eva Perón, Tita Merello & Mercedes Sosa could also be found:

A highlight–not part of the 2009 tour–was the Presidential Office. Formerly the official dining room, Perón turned it into an office in the 1940′s. Absolutely stunning woodwork & a richly decorated ceiling:

The formal reception room, also known as the Salón Blanco, is probably the most impressive stop on the tour:

But by far my favorite moment–again, not part of the 2009 tour–was stepping out onto the balcony which overlooks Plaza de Mayo. Yeah, that balcony… the one where all the important speeches were given. In such a historical spot, it felt like an incredible privilege to be allowed access. The view is pretty spectacular as well:

The tour ended back on the ground floor in the Patio de las Palmeras, the only interior patio of the building, & a walk through the Salón de los Bustos. Since President Roca, some of the best Argentine artists have been commissioned to sculpt busts of former presidents. Works can be found by Lucio Correa Morales, Pedro Zonza Briano, & José Fioravanti. Alfonsín joined the rest in 2008, but Kirchner has yet to be added:

One room I’d hoped to revisit had been removed from the tour: the tiny Presidential bedroom. Since the Casa Rosada was only meant to be an office & not a residence, a small bed was installed for Roque Sáenz Peña… the only President to have ever slept inside. Plush but it doesn’t look too comfy:

In my opinion, the $7 million pesos spent to restore the building for the bicentennial last year were well spent. Imagine the difficulties of adapting such an old & often-altered building to the needs of the 21st century. The Casa Rosada has to be a workspace for the executive branch of government as well as an official reception area & press center. Mixing in modern art & dozens of LED displays certainly helps bring the building up-to-date.

But honestly, there was too much art displayed for the space available… rooms felt cramped because of wall clutter. Also, the displays could have been more uniform. Some paintings had frames, some didn’t, some frames were expensive, others not so much. What a mixed bag. And in some rooms, I got the feeling that someone wanted to cover every wall with something. Whenever Cristina leaves–whether that’s this year or in 2015–the decoration will probably change. But in spite of how artwork is displayed, visiting the Casa Rosada is a wonderful experience & lets the imagination of history buffs like myself run wild.

Born in downtown Lisboa in 1897, many of his major constructions can be found there as well. Branco finished his studies in 1919, then traveled around Europe before returning to Portugal. His buildings demonstrate the trends of the day, taking elements from Art Deco, Monumentalism & Racionalism/Streamline Moderne. In spite of poor historical info, Cassiano Branco is recognized as one of the best mid-century Portuguese architects who tackled everything from apartment buildings, children’s amusement parks, markets, theaters, cinemas & hotels.

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The Cinema Império no longer projects movies & the upper decoration has been removed, but at least it’s still standing. The building currently serves as a evangelical center for the Universal Church of the Kingdom of God:

Everyone visiting Lisboa sees the Teatro Éden due to its central location. Formerly a Virgin Megastore & now an apart-hotel, the façade could not be more gorgeous:

Two classic hotels compliment Branco’s work on Avenida da Liberdade in Lisboa. The Hotel Vitória is now the headquarters for Portuguese Communist Party & the Hotel Britania (originally named the Hotel do Império) has been completely restored, retaining its Art Deco charm. I had the pleasure of staying in the Britania a few years ago for work & highly recommend it.

Even though the country was in a bit of an economic slump, Lisboa grew in the 1950′s & the idea was to install a sense of modernity into a very traditional city. The Praça de Londres formed the centerpiece of this new urban policy & remains fascinating to look at today. The Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho regulates the wine industry from another Branco building in Lisboa:

Further afield, Branco designed the controversial but cute Portugal dos Pequenitos in Coimbra (covered previously in this blog):

The Coliseu do Porto still functions as one of the primary performance venues in town:

But sometimes it’s unbuilt projects which capture the most attention… that romantic idea of what could have been. As part of the anniversary celebrations in 1940, a monument to Prince Henry the Navigator was planned for the former location of the navigation school in Sagres. All proposals were equally grandiose, but Branco’s is so over-the-top that it deserves mention. Unfortunately none of the proposals received funding & the place is a bit barren & desolate these days.

Cassiano Branco passed away in 1970. While waiting to get my hands on a copy of the 2008 book by Paulo Tormenta Pinto–the latest & most complete compilation of Branco’s work–I’ll have to be content going through the 300+ photos of his buildings posted by other fans. Can’t wait to add my own!

Behind the recently restored Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha sits what most people consider to be a kids’ attraction. But this playground of miniature monuments, tiny houses & museum displays from around the world–Portugal dos Pequenitos–was designed to do a lot more than entertain children. Built under the Salazar regime from 1937 to 1961 by architect Cassiano Branco, this compact display of the best of Portugal transmits a message that few people understand today.

National context • Portugal developed into a modern nation during the period from 1880 to 1930. By all counts, a very intense period. The king was assassinated, a republic put in the monarchy’s place, new symbols were adopted & historical rediscovery was underway. The unstated goal: formation of a new identity & culture. Fernando Bissaya Berreto (photo below, right) grew up during this tumultuous period. As a doctor, he developed a social conscious & happened to be in the right place at the right time. While attending medical school in Coimbra, he became an admirer of future dictator António de Oliveira Salazar (photo below, left). They remained friends for life.

Timing • In the late 1930′s, preparation began for the 1940 Exposição do Mundo Português. Worthy of a future post, let’s just say for now that it was a big event, full of Fascist architecture, & celebrated Portugal’s presence in world history. Bissaya Berreto wanted a small piece of that expo in Coimbra & proposed the idea of a smaller version for children. With Salazar’s approval, Cassiano Branco began the 24-year project.

Major monuments from the entire nation were constructed in miniature. Regional models for houses were built kid-size… there’s more than one type of casa portuguesa. Explorations took center stage & information about overseas territory highlighted Portugal’s contact with the world, mainly in Asia & Africa:

Social context • Inspired by Maria Montessori, Portugal dos Pequenitos meant to instill national pride in children, teaching them about different regions along with national heritage monuments. It was even attached to the first Casa da Criança built by Bissaya Berreto, modeled on Montessori’s Casa dei Bambini. Care was taken to place electrical sockets out of reach of children–a novelty for the time–and treat them as rational, mini-adults. By exposing them to Portuguese history, Bissaya Berreto intended to give the next generation a new identity.

Although popular as ever with school groups, many adults who visited the site as children now feel a sense of disgust because of the clear association with Salazar. No doubt, Portugal dos Pequenitos owes its existence to the dictator & its architectural style reinforces that fact. But it represents so much more. The idea of giving children a sense of pride in their nation was new in 20th-century Portugal. Even Spain was going through a similar identity crisis at the same time after Spanish-American War.

So as a national theme park, it can’t be beat. Besides, it’s fun to walk through & see how many monuments you can identify. The standard tourist circuit was defined at the same time, so there’s everything from the Arco do Triunfo in Lisboa to the Torre dos Clérigos in Porto. But the map of the discoveries below says it all with a quote from the epic “Os Lusíadas” by Camões: E, se mais mundo houvera, lá chegara… And if more of the world existed, we would have arrived there.

Feel the pride.

Sources:

José Manuel Fernandes, “Português Suave: Arquitecturas do Estado Novo,” IPPAR (2003).

Salazar photo, Centro de Documentação Bissaya Barreto, released 2010.

Silva, Cristina Emília R. e, “Portugal Pequenino,“ Resdomus, Grupo FCT Atlas da Casa, Centro de Estudos de Arquitectura e Urbanismo (2010).

Ana Tostões, ed., “Arquitectura Moderna Portuguesa: 1920-1970,” IPPAR (2004).